November 24, 2014

Churches Turned Restaurants, Part Two: Historic Settings, Uplifting Cuisine

  • By: Katherine Flynn

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Guests can dine beneath cathedral ceilings at the former First Baptist Church -- now Terrapin Restaurant -- in Rhinebeck, New York

In the Fall 2014 issue of Preservation we brought you our first roundup of churches-turned-restaurants, following it up shortly thereafter with a blog post featuring even more heavenly cuisine. In case your prayers still weren't answered, here are three brand-new selections sure to please the palates of even the most devout food-lovers.

Terrapin Restaurant
6426 Montgomery Street
Rhinebeck, NY 12572
$$ | New American

Renowned for its locally-sourced cuisine and customizable burgers, Rhinebeck, New York’s Terrapin Restaurant is housed in the 1825 First Baptist Church. One side of the space holds a traditional formal eatery, where guests can dine beneath cathedral ceilings; the other features the Red Bistro, a more casual bar area that serves specialties like a truffled fig, brie, and roasted shallot quesadilla. The famous create-a-sandwich menu offers filling choices that range from shredded duck confit to a half-pound Hudson Valley Cattle Company beef patty, and toppings are seemingly limitless: from wasabi aioli to grilled eggplant, the only option not available is leaving hungry.

Both Terrapin and the Red Bistro pride themselves on their craft beer, specialty cocktails, and wine selections. This year’s annual restaurant-sponsored Craft Beer Experience, held in August, featured craft and small-batch brews from over 20 New York State breweries.

Supporting local farmers and merchants is a cornerstone of Terrapin’s business plan; head chef and owner Josh Kroner won an award at the county fair this past fall for his efforts as one of the “founding fathers” of the Hudson Valley locavore movement. In a popular monthly “Kids Taste & Talk” program at the restaurant, Kroner leads a group of school-aged children through a locally sourced meal, providing details about where the ingredients for each dish come from.

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During Freemason Abbey's renovation process, removal of two false ceilings exposed the original wooden cathedral roof trusses.

Freemason Abbey
209 W. Freemason Street
Norfolk, VA 23510
$$ | New American

Freemason Abbey is housed in what was originally Norfolk, Virginia’s 1873 Second Presbyterian Church. Occupied by the First Church of Christ Scientist from 1902 to 1948 and the Independent Order of Odd Fellows until 1987, the building became a restaurant in 1988 and grew into the well-loved local landmark that it is today. Removal of two false ceilings during the renovation process exposed the original wooden cathedral roof trusses, allowing for an authentic and awe-inspiring dining experience.

Diners can pack into lamp-lit booths to partake in any one of the Abbey’s signature dishes. Seafood options are plentiful, like the broiled seafood platter with scallops, shrimp, crab cakes, and tilapia served with wild rice and asparagus, or the cilantro lime shrimp in cream sauce. There’s also no shortage of vegetarian options, like the curry vegetable bowl and the vegetarian penne topped with a smoked Gouda sauce. Desserts can vary, but apricot brandy bread pudding was a recent featured item.

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Eclectic art and furnishings fill the interior of Beans in the Belfry, housed in a former church built c. 1910.

Beans in the Belfry
122 W. Potomac Street
Brunswick, MD
$ | Café

Located in a circa 1910 church with intact original stained-glass windows, Beans in the Belfry offers coffee and a full café-style menu, as well as beer and wine, seven days a week (yes, even on Sunday). Comfortable couches and chairs invite visitors to stay a while, and the eclectic art lining the green walls gives the interior a distinctive feel. When the downstairs fills up, patrons can find additional seating in the choir loft.

Beans in the Belfry has been open since October 2004. The building had been boarded up since about 1962, estimates co-owner Hanna Politis, but after a loving restoration (and an eviction of the resident pigeon population), it was ready to welcome diners and community members.

Weekly happenings include a Sunday jazz brunch, featuring a rotating cast of local jazz performers and a choice of five entrée selections: a Belgian waffle with berries, quiche, bagel and lox, eggs Benedict, or buttermilk biscuits with sausage gravy. For $18, visitors can receive a full English afternoon tea service, including tea sandwiches, scones, sweets and a selection of tea, from standard Earl Grey to more exotic Rooibos, or red tea. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, try the Crab Party Pretzel, a 10 oz. soft pretzel with crab meat, cream cheese, and cheddar and Monterey jack cheese, served warm.

Katherine Flynn is a former assistant editor at Preservation magazine. She enjoys coffee, record stores, and uncovering the stories behind historic places.

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