May 29, 2015

Follow the Gold Record Road: The Americana Music Triangle, Part 1

  • By: Katherine Flynn

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This sculpture in Congo Square, New Orleans, pays homage to the enslaved workers who gathered there on Sundays to sell goods, dance, and play music.

The Americana Music Triangle is a stretch of land between Nashville, Memphis and New Orleans where a swirl of cultures and influences helped to form no fewer than nine uniquely American genres of music: blues, jazz, country, rock n’ roll, R&B/soul, gospel, southern gospel, Cajun/zydeco, and bluegrass. It includes the hot, swampy marshland that gave birth to the Delta Blues and the legendary recording studios of Nashville and Memphis that launched the careers of countless American icons like B.B King, Elvis and Johnny Cash. It’s a place that will tell you almost anything you want to know about the roots of American music, if you know where to look -- and listen.

A newly launched online project (supported by a nonprofit organization of the same name) seeks to tell the story of these 1,500 miles of highway and the cities and towns surrounding them, and encourages tourists to go in search of sounds and slices of culture that simply can’t be found anywhere else.

“We just have a passion for connecting people to these places,” says founder Aubrey Preston, a Tennessee native who conceptualized the project. (He’s also the philanthropist who recently purchased Music Row’s Studio A in Nashville.) “At the end of the day, the project serves a lot of purposes: preservation, education, tourism, economic development, music history and advocacy for music. If people don’t go to these places, they’re in danger of being torn down.”

The Americana Music Triangle website makes it easy to navigate the routes that will take you to places like the Atchafalaya Basin, the largest wetland in the United States, where French ballads met German, Spanish, and Native American influences to evolve into Cajun and zydeco sounds. The routes are organized in terms of five driving trails, and while their coverage is both comprehensive and exhaustive, we’ve rounded up some highlights below of the first two. (The other three will be covered in a second post.) We encourage you to check out the website for all the details.

If this all seems a little overwhelming, take Preston’s advice and just “follow the Gold Record Road,” the loop of highway encompassing Nashville, Memphis and New Orleans. Even if you're only exploring via the web, happy travels!

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Visitors can experience living history at Vermillionville in Lafeyette, Louisiana, which recreates the way of life of Creole and Acadian immigrants to the region in the 18th and 19th centuries.

New Orleans to Natchez – “Big Easy to Little Easy,” US-90 W – I-10 – US-61 N

Start in New Orleans and wind your way down to Natchez for countless music venues and dance halls, not to mention Cajun fare, and be sure to hit up these spots along the way.

Congo Square – New Orleans

Congo Square sits in what is now Louis Armstrong Park in the heart of New Orleans’ Tremé neighborhood, just north of the French Quarter. When enslaved workers were allowed Sundays off from their labor during Louisiana’s 18th century French and Spanish colonial eras, they would congregate in the square (formerly known as Place de Negres), singing, dancing, and playing rhythmic music that shared a few similarities with modern-day jazz, R&B and rock sounds. Congo Square is still a popular open-air New Orleans concert venue, regularly hosting drum circles, dancing, and jazz performances.

Tipitina’s – New Orleans

Tipitina’s, a famous New Orleans bar and music venue, takes its name from a song by the native son and beloved jazz virtuoso Professor Longhair. Numerous live albums by artists including Phish, Dr. John, The Blind Boys of Alabama, and Professor Longhair himself have been recorded there. All profits from the venue are donated to the Tipitina’s Foundation, a nonprofit that supports childhood music education and professional development for adult musicians.

Vermilionville – Lafeyette, Louisiana

Vermilionville, perched on the banks of the Bayou Vermilion, opened in 1990 as a living history museum, preserving the way of life of Acadian and Creole immigrants to the region from 1765 to 1890. Visitors can tour seven restored original homes on the 23-acre site and observe craft demonstrations like cotton spinning, as well as traditional musical performances.

Cajun Music Hall of Fame -- Eunice, Louisiana

The Cajun Music Hall of Fame, sponsored by the Cajun French Music Association, features stories, artifacts, photos, instruments, memorabilia, and more. Think of it as a one-stop shop for everything you ever needed or wanted to know about Cajun musical culture.

Teddy’s Juke Joint – Baton Rouge, Louisiana

For true local Baton Rouge flavor, Teddy’s Juke Joint, located in a shotgun house that was the owner’s former childhood home, is your spot. Located off Highway 61 and established in 1979, Teddy’s features live music most nights and serves gumbo, pork chop sandwiches, sausages, and other Louisiana specialties.

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Painted murals in the town of Leland, Mississippi commemorate the Delta's blues legends.

Under the Hill Saloon – Natchez, Mississippi

Built in the late 1700s or early 1800s, the Under the Hill Saloon is one of the most historic on the Mississippi River. Once a stopping point for “thieves, cutthroats, ladies-of-the-night and riverboat gamblers,” the saloon now features live music every weekend and is a popular gathering spot. The Mark Twain Guest House, located directly above the bar and restaurant, provides a convenient place to spend the night after indulging in an evening of Cajun music and strong drinks.

Vicksburg to Memphis – the “Delta Highway,” US-61 – US-82 – US-6

This region is steeped in history and lore. It’s where legendary blues musician Robert Johnson sold his soul to the devil and where the Delta Blues sound took shape. For rich history and authentic sounds, make your way down the Delta Highway and check out of a few of these highlights.

Highway 61 Blues Museum – Leland, Mississippi

Nearly 150 nationally and internationally renowned blues artists have come from the small, 100-mile-radius area surrounding Leland, Mississippi, including B.B. King, Boogaloo Ames, and more. Stop by this museum (which recently moved to the historic Montgomery Hotel building) for a plethora of concert photos, instruments that belonged to blues greats, and other memorabilia.

Club Ebony / B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center – Indianola, Mississippi

Club Ebony has been open since 1945. It was owned by B.B. King’s former mother-in-law at one point in time and, later, by the legend himself. It’s now under the purview of the B.B. King Museum, an Indianola landmark that chronicles King's life and work and celebrates Delta Blues heritage and culture.

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Sun Studio in Memphis, where Elvis recorded his first song in 1953, is still in business.

Robert Johnson Grave Mystery – Greenwood, Mississippi

Blues legend Robert Johnson was supposedly poisoned at the age of 27 by a jealous husband in the town of Greenwood, but where his earthly remains are actually buried remains a mystery. His death certificate says that he is buried at Zion Church. However, three churches within the city limits all have marked gravesites dedicated to Johnson. Visit all three and decide for yourself which one seems the most reputable.

Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art Store Clarksdale, Mississippi

The Cat Head store is a record store, yes, but it's also a repository of musical history, folk art, and local lore. It's all carefully curated by owner Roger Stolle, a former advertising executive who quit his job and moved to Clarksdale to help promote and preserve blues history.

Sun Studio – Memphis, Tennessee

Sam Phillips’ Sun Studio, which opened in 1950, is considered by many music historians to be ground zero for American rock and roll. Elvis Presley recorded his first song there in 1953, and later, Johnny Cash, Carl Perkins, and Jerry Lee Lewis all laid down tracks there. This is a must for avid rock-and-roll fans. The studio is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and tours are given at the bottom half of every hour from 10:30 a.m. through 5:30 p.m.

Katherine Flynn is a former assistant editor at Preservation magazine. She enjoys coffee, record stores, and uncovering the stories behind historic places.

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